The Nomadic Retiree

One man's perceptions on wandering this blue marble.

Getting Mobile When You’re Nomadic

Many times when you’re nomadic you may come across housing accommodations that may include the use of a vehicle. While staying near Akumal, Quintana Roo, MX at Rancho Amor, I had such an opportunity to use the owner’s vehicle that was stored in a palapa. Below is my account of “getting mobile”.

The evening before, I was walking by the large dining table under the palapa (Big house) and noticed a set of car keys on it. The property manager had said he was going to try and find them and it appears he was successful.

I slept well the night before so I must have been pretty tired. Woke up with a bit of a scratchy throat. Thought it was from the overhead fan blowing on me all night. Didn’t think much of it.

This morning I decided to try and start the owner’s Chevy Blazer. No luck. Dead as a door nail. Boy this would have saved a lot of walking. I decided to go to town and on the way stop at the property managers office and let him know the battery was dead. He kindly lent a battery charger for me to use so I could get it going. I tried the fast charge and no luck starting it so I let it trickle charge for several hours. The next time I tried to start it, I was successful. Wheels!! Backed it out of the garage and starting hosing it down. It had a pile of bat shit on the roof and hood.

I then took it for a test ride around the jungle subdivision and see what it is like here. All of the homes are walled off with big gates out front. I couldn’t see behind the walls enough to get a look at the houses but some were huge complexes not rustic like where I was staying. The roads are crushed limestone and one lane. I went far enough to see what it was like without getting lost so I turned around and headed back to the Rancho Amor casita. Once I shut off the engine, I tried restarting it. No luck! Reconnected the charger at that point.

After a few hours, I tried it again and it did start. This time I thought I’d take a ride into the nearest town of Akumal to see what it was like. I told myself I shouldn’t shut the engine off or I’d likely be stranded. The highway divides Akumal with one side for the residents and the other side (beachside) for tourist. Entering the town I noticed a small convenience shop and private parking lot that looked like the only parking available. There were a dozen small tourist shops and a hotel at an archway. I drove through the archway to see how close to the beach I could get. The road seemed to have speed bumps every 75 yards along with potholes galore. I did catch glimpses of the ocean between residences and condos. It was a bright blue.

I drove until the road began to curve away from the ocean and decided to turn back. I was starving at this point and had spotted what looked like a taco stand with a sign out front so I decided to stop. It turned out it wasn’t a taco stand but an outdoor restaurant. I didn’t see anyone around except a couple of guys sitting at the tables so decided to poke my head into the building where I heard people talking. It was the kitchen. Ask if they had carry out and said yes but decide what you want off the menu out in front by the street. I ordered some kind of pork burrito (couldn’t pronounce the name). I also noted they served Lion fish tacos. I never heard of Lion fish being eaten. I do know they are not indigenous to the Gulf of Mexico and they are driving away the barrier reef fishes. While waiting for my food I met a man from Chicago here for a visit. He said he hadn’t been back to Akumal in three years and wanted to reconnect with friends he had made from before. He said he knew the owners of the restaurant we were in and had known the chef for 15 years. After I got my food, the woman chef, Gynna, comes out and sits down at a table with a laptop and said she was going to post a video on her website of hunting Lion fish and then preparing them. I told her I’d be interested in seeing that so she gave me a business card with her facebook info where it was to be posted.  Click Here to see the Lion fish hunter.

lion fish

Well, off I go with my late lunch to the running Blazer I had parked in front of the restaurant. Drove back to Rancho Amor and devoured an incredible meal. I think I’ll be going back to try the Lion fish tacos next.

Rest of the day was spent Skyping and emailing. Talked to the owners about their Blazer battery and they left it up to me if I wanted to replace it. I didn’t have to think too long about it since it would get me mobile but wasn’t sure where to go to find a replacement battery. The owners suggested WalMart in Playa de Carmen and using tools in the thatched garage. I looked in the storage palapa and there were no wrenched any where. Decided tomorrow I would see if the property manager had any.

The next day I woke up with a worse scratchy throat. Started gargling with salt water hoping it may nip it in the bud. The plan was to get a battery for the Blazer. Didn’t know where or how yet, but thought I’d try.

My first stop was at the property manager’s office. This office is a small two story building behind a walled complex with a wooden gate. By the way the hardwoods they use in Mexico are beautiful and some of the gates are gorgeous. Most gates also have a pedestrian door built in or next to them. This one was right next to it and just had a friction closure. Of course, I left the Blazer running and once I opened the gate I was greeted by two large brown dobermans. They began barking but not growling, so I put out my hand hoping they would calm down. Nope, not until a younger guy came out of the second floor office onto the wrap around porch and yelled something to get them to stop.

I introduced myself in English hoping he understood and luckily he did. He was the property manager’s assistant. I began asking for tools to change a battery. He said the property manager was away for the day in Cancun. Great! I thought no battery today. But he was able to contact the property manager by cell phone and after explaining things, he suggested I go to a big store like City Club in Playa de Carmen to have someone replace the battery. I liked this idea since I did have to mess with borrowing tools and busting some knuckles. I also knew exactly where this store was located having seen it at Centro Maya where I was the day I was getting internet service.

So I thanked the property manager’s assistant and off I went to Playa. Took a wrong exit and ended up driving through downtown Playa de Carmen before getting back on the right road to get to City Club (which also happens to be right across from Sam’s Club). I pulled up close to the obvious garage labeled with Bridgestone and thought they would be the ones to do the battery. Got inside and found a receptionist and said “Hablo Inglese?” No she responded. I then slowed my English and made gestures and her manager turned around and told her to have me show her what was wrong.

getting mobile

So out to the truck we went and I opened the hood and pointed to the battery and a light bulb went off with her. We went back in and the she explained to the manager what I was after. Funny, I didn’t see any batteries around. The manager knew some limited English and explained I needed to go into the City Club to purchase the battery and they would install it. Great, the word “Club” tipped me off I needed a membership card to get in. I explained this to the manager and he opened up his billfold and produced a card. He then escorted me to the store to purchase a battery. Along the way, he said “pay me back cash?” I stated I needed an ATM to do that. Fortunately, the mall has several so he was OK with that. He spent a long time looking over the batteries and even asked me the vehicle make and model by pointing in a spec book hanging next to the batteries. Anyway we found one the looked like the one in the truck but he was still unsure so he got on his cell to his receptionist to have one of his mechanics come over to the store.

When he arrived he looked it over then said he needed to go look at the vehicle and off he went. When he got back he did confirm it was the right battery and the manager went and slid the battery across the floor toward him, expecting him to pick it up and carry it. The manager was a younger man by far and I thought this was kind of arrogant. Guess when you’re in management in Mexico you don’t get your hands dirty or do physical labor. While they were checking out, I left for the ATM. I remembered the location from the day before and was able to withdraw $3000 pesos.

When I got back they were already changing the battery and as I approached the manager he handed me a bill for $2075 pesos. Once the battery was changed and the the truck started right up, I paid the manager $2100 pesos. I did ask if he wanted to take care of it inside and he said no. He also kept the bill and I didn’t get a receipt. Now I do know the the battery was marked at $1399 pesos. So after thinking about this, I think I just paid a “Gringo Tax”. I didn’t complain, just happy to be mobile.

I went down to the McDonald’s and celebrated with a late lunch chicken salad wrap. Also was able to get help connecting to the wifi there so at least I have a free wifi hot spot I can use in Playa de Carmen if I need it. I’ve found out that the McDonald’s wifi requires a password to get access, but it is the same at each one that I had visited.

Later that evening, the property manager came by on his four wheeler and dropped off a fist full of keys. Said to return them on Monday. It appears he holds his weekend sacred. These keys gave me the run of the place including the Paylapa (main house). Later that evening I toured the Paylapa upper floor and found it had one bedroom, one bath, a loft bedroom, a living area and small study. It does have a wrap around deck, but no real views as the thatch roof hangs too low to see anything. While descending the spiral stair case which have irregular steps made of logs, I trip on the last step and fall to the concrete at the base on my knees. Ouch, skinned and bruised knees to add to the blisters on my feet from the sandals I’ve been walking in. Shower and off to bed.

Lessons learned: 1) When immersion traveling, look for opportunities to get use of private vehicles with housing. This doesn’t occur often but is well worth it to get mobile. 2) Watch for free wifi hotspots, they can be helpful when mobile to stay connected. 3) While most Mexicans are extremely helpful, be aware of the “gringo” tax.

Hasta Luego

 

Posted in Expat living, Nomadic living, Nomadic retiree tips Tagged expat, immersion travel, Mexico, nomadic, pensioner, retiree, transportation, travel, Yucatan Leave a comment

Staying Connected When Going Nomadic

One of the important things when going nomadic is being able to get connected to the internet to allow communications to friends and family after leaving the States. Recently, I had to acquire access while staying in a somewhat remote area just north of Akumal, Quintana Roo, MX. Being so remote I had very limited choices for services. There was a wireless wifi service available, but required the installation of a tower and antennae, also there was cable wifi available but short term access wasn’t available, so this left me with just using a USB modem with a cell sim card. An expensive option, but the only one available.

After spending some time familiarizing myself with my new surroundings including the thatch roof Casita where I was staying and having a quick breakfast. I packed up my laptop in my backpack and hoofed it to the highway to catch a Collectivo to Playa del Carmen where I was told is the main office of the cell phone internet provider, TelCel. I had no idea where in town it was, but got off the Collectivo in downtown and started walking in the direction of a TelCel distributor I spotted from the Collectivo ride into town. Five blocks later, I arrive at this little store only to find no one understood English and couldn’t help me. At this point, I realize that knowing some Spanish would have been helpful before arriving here. I did remember a McDonald’s restaurant near the main highway coming into town so off I went in that direction hoping to find another American that knew where the TelCel main office was.

Along the way I spotted what appeared to be an American woman and asked if she knew the location of the main TelCel office, but no luck. When I arrived at the McDonald’s, they still had their breakfast menu up so I ordered a second breakfast not knowing when I’d be able to eat next. I tried to access the internet but it kept asking for a user id and password. Later I found out you have to ask for it. In Spanish of course. Just before leaving I spotted a black fellow who had come in for breakfast. I asked him if he knew English and he confirmed he did. I think he was French though because of his accent. Anyway, he told me I needed to get to the other side of the main highway and walk about three minutes south until I came to a huge shopping mall and they are located with in it. Off I go and his idea of three minutes and mine were completely different. I swear it was more like 3 miles.

I did arrive and was glad to see Centro Maya. It looked like an American indoor mall. I was able to locate the TelCel store and when I approach a doorman opened the door for me. You don’t ever see that in the States. Inside it looked like a bank lobby with customer service people manning the teller stations. To my left was what appeared to be a receptionist, so I tried my luck “Hablo Inglese?” She said a little. I then tried to explain what I needed and she began to type something into a computer. She gave me a ticket she printed out and told me to go stand in line where customers were waiting in a roped off area. I asked for an English speaking representative and she said to go to #20, 21 or #9. I picked 20 he looked most American. Before I got to him, she intercepted me and directed me to #9. This gentleman knew English very well. He asked what I needed and I explain a USB port cell modem for internet access. So he prints out a contract in triplicate and told me where to sign. It was in Spanish anyway so it didn’t matter since it was pay as you go. I just needed internet and it looked like was going to get it.

Centro Maya Mall

After signing I was directed to go pay for it by standing in another line where all the money cashiers are, then come back and see him. These people were behind thick glass with just a small opening to transact business. Paid cash in pesos $249 (about $20 US) for the USB modem. After going back to the original representative he asked what plan I wanted. What plan??? He gave me a list to choose from. I figured I needed the biggest one so I went with the 30 dias, 3 GB for $399 pesos (about $32 US) called the alto30. He printed a ticket out and told me to go to the cashier to pay for it and come back to him. Apparently they don’t sell this plan too often because the cashier had to break up the transaction into two parts, one for $300 pesos and another for $99 pesos. Anyway I was getting closer to internet service. Back to the original representative and offered to set up and activate the USB modem stick so all I had to do was stick it in. He said it was good for anywhere in Mexico. Great, off I go to see what the mall looked like inside and maybe try out my new USB stick.

This Mexican mall was spotless much cleaner than our American malls. The floor were glassy looking tiles. Needed to use the “bano” so I spotted one at mid mall. Found a very interesting plumbing setup. Step flush urinals! Thought that was a great idea – no touching handles. I walked to the other end to discover a McDonald’s and a food court outside some movie theaters showing first run movies from the states. In Spanish of course. I sat down and fired up the laptop and plugged in the USB modem only to find I couldn’t connect. A guy was near me and I chanced he knew some English and explained my problem. He misunderstood and thought I wanted to connect to the mall wifi. When he realized what I was asked he suggested I go back to TelCel. Off I went again.

Centro Maya mall step flush urinal

When I arrive a different receptionist was on duty so I tried English with her. She somehow understood and directed me to wait in line with my ticket. When I got to the customer representative, she spoke no English but through gestures and pulling out my laptop she understood. She ask to take the laptop back to the service tech and they were pouring over it and about 10 minutes later she brings it back with another gentleman that spoke English and he explained they installed a software program for running the modem and he showed me how it works and we have internet! Off I go again to the mall to send out quick messages that I made it to Mexico and was OK.

All the line standing made me hungry again and it was now late afternoon, so I took the easy way out and had an Angus Swiss Onion burger at the McDonald’s. Having my hunger satisfied, I decided to go to the grocery store at the mall to check it out for things to eat since I ate the only dinner I bought the day before. Consistent with the other grocery store I was at yesterday, this one also didn’t have ready prepared frozen foods. Anyway I did find a couple of freeze dried meals I could make. Packed all these into my backpack and went out to the highway to catch a Collectivo back to Rancho Amor.

It turned out to be a bad time to catch one because everyone was getting off work at that time. I walked for about a mile before one stopped. Interestingly, the driver had his family riding with him eating dinner. I was glad to get back to the Rancho and pretty tired from all the activities of the prior two days. I fired up the laptop and emailed family and friends.

Lessons learned: Learning basic Spanish would be useful, this isn’t the US and things are definitely different. Secondly, expect to pay high rates when located remotely for internet access using a USB cell modem.

Posted in Expat living, Nomadic living, Nomadic retiree tips Tagged expat, immersion travel, Mexico, nomad, pensioner, retiree, travel, Yucatan Leave a comment

Going Nomadic Outside the US

My last day January 8th, 2013 in US began very early (4:15 am Eastern). I just woke up for some reason. I knew I needed to be up at 5:00 am but for some reason just woke up early. I did try to get back to sleep, but I knew that was pointless. So I got up and began getting ready for a long day of travel. My daughter was kind enough to offer a ride to Orlando’s International airport. 5:30 am came when we were to leave and she popped out saying she needed 10 minutes to get ready. She had overslept and didn’t hear her alarm. Fortunately, we left with plenty of time to make my 8:15 am flight to Cancun, MX. Luckily, the traffic was relatively light so she was able to pull up in front of my ticketing counter for JetBlue. We said our goodbyes and good lucks and now I was on my own.

Lesson learned: Always allow extra time getting to the airport in the event of some sort of minor delay. It will help with your stress level. It did mine.

I had all my worldly possessions in two bags packed to the gills! One check in bag weighing I hoped was a little less than 50 lbs. (the limit for no charges) and a carry-on back pack weighing in at 40 lbs. When I entered the terminal I was confronted immediately with a long ticketing line made up of a lot of Spanish decent people. At the end of the line was a very large family consisting of grandma and grandpa to small children and everyone speaking Spanish. By luck, there was a separate line for those who already had boarding passes and just needed to check bags that only had one or two people in it. But the entry to the line was blocked by an older Spanish gentleman that I just couldn’t get him to understand I needed to get by to enter the line. He was waiting in the over flowing ticketing line. Finally, made it through and got called up to check my bag. I just hoped I wasn’t over the weight limit of 50 lbs. Made it though. It also was the first time I needed to pull out my passport for inspection. Once my bag was checked, it was a whole lot easier to manage just the one bag. Next was getting through TSA.

Lesson learned: Review the airline baggage policies and attempt to pack under their weight limits. Weigh your bags before heading to the airport if their is a question about weight. Also consider what you are taking and try to take only the essentials. Much of what you need may be purchased locally when you arrive.

Orlando International has their TSA checkpoint in the main entry terminal and everyone is shuttled to the departure terminals and gates. You are confronted with a massive amount of people at this point with zigzagging roped off lines. Surprisingly, I only was in line for a total of 15 minutes. Shoes off, laptop in it’s own tray, and 40 lb. bag on the conveyor belt. Body scanned. I did leave my new money belt on and had no problem. About every other guy was taking his off. Anyway, once I passed security I proceeded to the Gate 9 shuttle and only waited seconds for it to appear. Off I went to the gate terminal in plenty of time so I stopped for a juice and muffin. $7 – airport prices are awful.

Lesson learned: Don’t panic when seeing long security lines, TSA does try and make things move quickly, but I’d recommend allowing a minimum of a half hour to pass security. Also, pack some granola bars or something similar to avoid high airport food prices.

Once at my departure gate, the attendant announced that all passengers must check in for a review of their documents. When I got to the counter they ask for my passport and boarding pass. They then asked where my return ticket was? I said I believed I didn’t need one if I didn’t intend to stay longer than 180 days. The attendant insisted I did and offered me a chance to purchase one on the spot. I insisted I did not. She turned to another attendance and asked and she said she wasn’t sure. Next that attendant got on the phone while I stepped aside because I was blocking a long line of people checking in. After two phone calls, the second attendant said it was OK for me to go without a return ticket.

Lesson learned: Be insistent if you believe you are right when dealing with customer service personnel. Many times they are ill or misinformed about visa requirements. Always do your research on your entry country visa requirements.

After dealing with the stress of being informed I needed a return ticket by the airline attendant, I was able to sit comfortably waiting for my boarding time. I was glad to hear my flight was on time and I began to take advantage of the free airport wifi to text people of my status since I didn’t know when I would be able to recontact them. Boarding was on time and I was seated next to a non-English speaking Hispanic girl. The trip was pretty silent. I noticed I was one of the few Americans on the flight. I also noticed a number of families traveling back from Disney World. Apparently, a number of Mexican families have attain some level of affluence.

Shortly after takeoff, we were given our immigration and custom forms. I did take some time completing these and asked for a full 180 day stay just to be safe. Our landing was fairly smooth and being at the back of the plane it did take a while to disembark. I was a little worried about time, as Tim Anderson and his girlfriend Cristina Barrios from Marginal Boundaries were meeting me to help get me to my final destination.

Once we disembarked we had to proceed directly to the immigration stations, where an officer reviewed our passport and the immigration form. Apparently I failed to see a portion of the form that required completion and was sent to a counter to complete the form correctly (basically you expected to complete a portion of the visa side of the form with your name, birthday, and passport number). After immigration you proceed to the baggage claim to pick up your bags then go to customs where your bags are run through some type of scanning machine. Mine went through OK, then your customs form is collected by another agent when requests you push an electronic button. If a green light appears you are free to proceed with your bags in tow. If a red light appears you are ushered over to a search area where you’ve got to open up your bags. I’m so glad I got the green light as my bags were busting at the seams as is. I seriously doubt I could re-pack them with all I had brought.

My next task was to get some pesos at an ATM and find Tim and Cristina. I spotted an ATM against a wall as I was exiting and two other guys were trying to use it. Apparently, the ATM stopped issuing pesos and they said there was another ATM in terminal 2, so off I went down the exit ramp from terminal 1. As luck would have it Tim and Cristina were waiting at the bottom of the exit ramp. So glad I found them easily and it turns out they were waiting only 5 minutes. I explained I needed pesos and Tim offered to front me a bus ticket to Playa del Carmen where I could use a bank ATM there. Off we went to the bus terminal loading area which Tim was kind enough to pull my 50 lb. rolling duffel bag. He explained that the best exchange rates and safe ATM’s are at the banks and Playa del Carmen had several near the bus terminal. The bus was a large greyhound sized bus with very comfortable seats. I was a little more relaxed once we got on and started to my final destination. It also gave me a chance to get acquainted with Tim and Cristina.

Once we arrived at Playa del Carmen I was able to find a bank ATM (Scotia Bank). Now the instructions for use are in Spanish and subtitled in English, reverse of US. I needed to withdraw some expense money so I decided $200 should be good. I punched in 200 and out pops 200 pesos (less than $20 US). Tim suggested $2500 pesos which would be close to $200 pesos, so back to the ATM a second time and this time I’m ready to go.

Lesson learned: When you’re in Mexico now every money transaction including ATM amounts will be in pesos. Know generally what the exchange rates are so you can convert to equivalent dollar value so you can relate to the values of things. Also, remember that ATM’s are subtitled in English and dollar amounts are in pesos. 

We proceeded to the Collectivo pick up point about three or four blocks away. These passenger vans are used extensively by the locals to get around. They pack them full of up to 15 people including any luggage and hand carried items. The cost from Playa del Carmen to Akumal (my destination was 4 miles North) was $35 pesos equivalent to less than three dollars. At this point I’m really glad Tim and Cristina are along because the drivers typically don’t speak English and Tim was able to give specific stop directions. I also need to comment that these drivers are in a hurry, the more passengers the more their salary is I believe. So they tend to race from point to point.

After several stops to let people off and pick some up, we finally arrive at our destination, a limestone road between two stone column with a small sign declaring it to be Rancho Santa Terresita. About 800 yards up the road going into the “jungle” is a gate manned by a guard. We stop and explain I am a new arrival for Lot #37. He knows nothing about it and speaks very little English. Thanks to Tim and Cristina’s help in Spanish, they were quickly able to sort things out and a van happens to pull up who knew I was coming. At that point, Tim and Cristina has to say farewell as Cristina had to get back to Cancun for work. Fortunately, the lady in the van spoke English and we drove for almost a half mile to her husbands office to pick up the key to #37. Also a maid came along to open the place and clean it up. Guess this isn’t unusual according to Tim.

Once the gate was opened to Rancho Amor, the photos I received early came to life. It is a rustic jungle compound that is isolated from the outside. The main highway sounds could still be heard (traffic and truck noise) so you knew you weren’t too far into the jungle.

Rancho Amor Front GateRancho Amor Casita

The maid promptly went to work cleaning up the place while I walked around the grounds to get familiar with it. It is really set up for outdoor living with a pool area, an outdoor wood burning oven and grill, a table and chairs under the main palapa (residence), a Mexican braided hammock, and a poolside “banos” (bathroom).

Rancho Amor Poolphoto (25)Rancho Amor Pool side banos

Once the maid was completed, I was left to fair for myself and realized I needed groceries. So off I hiked with my back pack and computer hoping to get internet connection to the main road to catch a Collectivo to the nearest grocery (the Super Chedraui) in Puerto Aventuras.

Getting to and from the grocery was a challenge with no Spanish but somehow I managed. I’m in an area where very little English is spoken by locals, so I’m always on the lookout for other “gringos”. The shopping wasn’t easy as everything as expected is in Spanish, but you tend to recognize some American products. Absolutely very little frozen food. For dinner here my first night I had a Lean Cuisine garlic linguine. I’ll need to adapt to the local food here and learn to cook like they do or else starve.

After dinner and dark it grew much quieter but a lot of animal noises could be heard. Since I have no TV and even if I did I’d have to watch it subtitled, I decided to watch one of the saved movies on my laptop. After that I was pretty weary and decided to take a shower and get to bed with the intention of obtaining internet service tomorrow since I hadn’t communicated my successful landing to friends and family back home.

Reflections: Successful trip, glad to have someone meet me, the language barrier is going to be a problem, the lodging is remote, rustic but semi comfortable.

 

Posted in Expat living, Nomadic living, Nomadic retiree tips Tagged expat, immersion travel, Mexico, nomad, nomadic, pensioner, retiree, travel, Yucatan 4 Comments
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